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Flat Bar width bike fitting

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AlienBassAl

New Rider
Hub Hero
I’m 6’3”, current bike Specialized Sirrus X 3.0, XL frame, 2024 model. The Flat Bars supplied are over 720mm wide. I’m a slim build and experience upper arm pain, pins and needles and numb hands after 45 mins riding. I’ve been trying to find a shoulder width correlation to bar width to improve my fit to the bike.
I’m certain I’ll need to reduce the flat bars width to bring my hand and arm angle into a more comfortable ride position. Any assistance?
 
I’m certain I’ll need to reduce the flat bars width to bring my hand and arm angle into a more comfortable ride position. Any assistance?
I immediately cut the handlebar in length. For example, now I have a 575mm wide handlebar and I'm much more comfortable. But I ride in asphalt and gravel mode, without extreme.
 

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I immediately cut the steering wheel in length. For example, now I have a 575mm wide steering wheel and I'm much more comfortable. But I ride in asphalt and gravel mode, without extreme.
I think I’ve the jist of that, thanks. As I thought, I’ll be breaking out the hack saw.
 
As I thought, I’ll be breaking out the hack saw.
I think the principle will be very good here: measure once, cut seven times. That is, cut off a little bit on each side and listen to your feelings ;)

P.S. I corrected the original message somewhat. Difficulties of translation :oops:
 
I think I’ve the jist of that, thanks. As I thought, I’ll be breaking out the hack saw.
And if the handlebar is made of aluminum alloy, it is more convenient to use such a tool, and you will only need to remove the grips.
 

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I don’t like very wide handlebars and have resorted to cutting more than once.

As @VlPo suggested: it is best to do it gradually, with a few days of test rides before cutting further.

Having said that, numb hands could also be the result of too much load/pressure. If your saddle is too far forward or has its nose tilted down, that could be causing the described problems.

My articles on bike, and handlebar fitting:

https://bike.bikegremlin.com/2819/setting-comfortable-cycling-position/
https://bike.bikegremlin.com/1160/mtb-bars-setup/
 
I think the principle will be very good here: measure once, cut seven times. That is, cut off a little bit on each side and listen to your feelings ;)

P.S. I corrected the original message somewhat. Difficulties of translation :oops:
I doubt I’ll be doing the work, will get my local bike shop to give me a hand. Thanks for the reassuring feed back. 😎🙏🏻
 
Having said that, numb hands could also be the result of too much load/pressure. If your saddle is too far forward or has its nose tilted down, that could be causing the described problems.
A very correct clarification. In fact, most problems with discomfort or numbness are related precisely to the rider's not quite correct position.
And another such moment... If the bike is not used for sports, but for daily trips or for pleasure, the handlebar with the grips bent towards the rider will almost always be more comfortable than a flatbar.
 

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In my case switching 95mm stem on 60mm stem did a thing. I even tried to put 95mm back yesterday and my fingertips become numb in 15 mins of riding, that's just unbelievable. The video explaining how you should not see front hub is very useful.
I was seeing front hub very clearly hahah. I am really impressed, how much influance 3,5 cm of stem lenght does have. Years of struggling with numb fingertips.
I also found out that moving your saddle to the front does not actually move you to the front. It seems like you need to find a place for a saddle where it will fit you, not you fit the saddle. And it makes sense, if you want to move forward, the cranks (meaning bb) is what should be moved forward, not a saddle. To be fair, the fornt hub thing, i saw it in one of GCN videos a few month ago, they told about it as well
 
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