Mounting and anti-seize pastes - article comments

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To prevent article pages from being miles long, but preserve all the useful questions and answers provided over time, I've decided to copy/paste the website comments to the forum - and "move" further discussions here.

These are the comments from the article:
Mounting and anti-seize pastes

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If you can't find the answer to your question in this thread, please open a separate thread with your question/problem, in an appropriate forum section (this is the Oils, greases and lubricants section).

Relja
 
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  1. Anthony
    06/05/2021 at 02:04
    Nice explanation – thanks. Is there something you’d recommend to stop the galvanic corrosion of Al nipples in a carbon wheel build?
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      Relja
      06/05/2021 at 06:29
      Hi Anthony,
      I would avoid aluminium nipples in the first place, if matching brass nipples can be sourced.
      Aluminium nipples offer slight weight savings, but are a lot more likely to seize, and are softer – so that works against them too if any loosening, or tightening is needed in the future.
      Either way, high-quality copper grease (anti-seize paste) is as good as it gets for preventing corrosion. I’d use it on both the spoke threads, and the nipple-to-rim interface.
      Relja
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      mike
      24/05/2021 at 07:55
      i simply use petroleum jelly on all my bike parts to stop corrosion,its also good to use on car battery terminals to keep them clean,i put it on spoke threads,bicycle seat post and its much cleaner then grease or pastes,very cheap option that works well,when bike shops sold new bikes many years ago this is what they used,i dont use any locktight on any threads i just use petroleum jelly,locktight on fine threads has a habit of stripping fine threads during removal,i have never had a bolt come loose without using locktight.
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    dale
    17/05/2021 at 03:53
    What is the difference in the one you link to and LOCTITE LB 8008 C5-A?
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      Relja
      17/05/2021 at 07:13
      Hi Dale,
      I don’t know. 8008 looks OK, looks like practically the same product, judging by the description.
      Relja
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    Nicolas
    31/05/2022 at 01:31
    Hello,
    Love your info as said on YouTube. You deserve more views.
    In a wheel hub, would you apply anti-seize on the axle threading to avoid the cups from seizing and grease in the cups/bearings or the risk of mixing the products is too great so one should use only grease in hubs?
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      Relja
      31/05/2022 at 05:54
      Hi Nicolas,
      A good question. 🙂
      I practically always use anti-seize on the threads and locknut face – and haven’t had any problems so far, for decades.
      Of course, I pay attention not to mix it with grease.
      How do I do that exactly?
      I smear just a small amount on the axle end(s) before I screw in the cone(s), and then apply some more on the axle part where the locknut will be screwed on, as well as on the locknut “face” to make it easier to unscrew after winter’s salty-road riding. 🙂
      Grease is fine for this, especially if cleaned and re-applied every 6 months (year max), but I sleep better when I use anti-seize. It provides a long-term (“permanent”) anti-seize protection even if nothing is touched for years (for whatever reasons).
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    Nicolas
    01/07/2022 at 17:52
    Dear Relja,
    Concerning threadlocker. I see most Youtube mechanics, namely Parktool, use blue threadlocker in brake posts. Since I have read your article and watched related Youtube video, I ditched the threadlocker and now use copper mounting paste on every bit of fastened bard, including brake posts.
    Is it ok?
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      Relja Novović
      01/07/2022 at 18:16
      Hi Nicolas,
      I use anti-seize and haven’t had any problems over the past decades (though using the optimal tightening torque is also important).
      There’s always at least one bottle of thread locker in my garage – just in case.
      Part Tool guys are experienced mechanics. They probably know what they’re doing.
      It’s also fair to say that using threadlocker offers an extra margin of safety, especially for riders who never check on their nuts and bolts (some people ride until something falls off, I’ve seen it numerous times).
      Nonetheless, I use and prefer anti-seize and am yet to see any problems, either with my own or with the bikes I(‘ve) service(d).
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    mike
    03/07/2022 at 08:21
    i have allways used just grease or petroleum jelly on all bolts,never had any problems,i never use any thread lock mainly because its not a real good idea to use it with fine threads as it can actually cross thread those fine threads sometimes when you try to remove an old bolt,i have actually stripped a thread on one bike trying to remove a bolt that had blue thread lock on it.,bikes dont really have enough vibration to loosen bolts anyways,just tighten them up once in a while and your good to go,its not a motorbike its a bicycle.
 
mike
03/07/2022 at 08:48
if you use thread lock it means you are not using anti-sieze or grease on that bolt,fast foward a year or two and that bolt will most likely be corroded and rusted in.
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    Relja Novović
    04/07/2022 at 18:06
    Hey Mike, 🙂
    In my experience, if applied correctly, thread locker fluid prevents any water (and/or air for that matter) from entering the assembly and is almost as effective in preventing galvanic corrosion.
    For bicycles, if one must use a thread locker, it’s best to use the low-strength version (I’ll make an article or a video on thread lockers).
    Having said that, I think that for practically all bicycle-related use cases, a good quality anti-seize is a better option.
 
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