Rear hub maintenance and subsequent repairs ( Shimano FH-RM33 )

[Arcturus]

Two weeks ago I took out the axle from my rear wheel to check if it needs to be re-greased. I tried to remove the dust cap so I can inspect the cup of the wheel to see if there is any pitting. Alas the dust cap cracked so I decided to take it to a local bike shop to see if it can be replaced.

So the hub is Shimano FH-RM33 and the mechanic at the bike shop told me it cannot be taken out. I wondered if this is true, but since I wanted my wheel back up and running asap I agreed for them to install a whole new hub.

So when I got the wheel back, they gave me what at first I thought was my old hub. But what it actually was is the brand new hub ( FH-TX505 ) from which they removed a dust cap which they then installed in my wheel. Is this sketchy or is it just me? :/

When I got home I spun the axle to see how smooth it feels, but to my surprise it was binding like crazy. Again I removed one of the cones to see how much grease it has. The grease seemed quite thin and smelly, clear in color. Not sure what it is or how good of a grease it is.

So I am wondering if I should take all of the ball bearings out and re-grease it with my own grease just to be sure? I have a tub of Bontrager grease which I hope is a good quality grease. https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/...lubricants-solvents/bontrager-grease/p/23386/

 

[BikeGremlin]

Two weeks ago I took out the axle from my rear wheel to check if it needs to be re-greased. I tried to remove the dust cap so I can inspect the cup of the wheel to see if there is any pitting. Alas the dust cap cracked so I decided to take it to a local bike shop to see if it can be replaced.

So the hub is Shimano FH-RM33 and the mechanic at the bike shop told me it cannot be taken out. I wondered if this is true, but since I wanted my wheel back up and running asap I agreed for them to install a whole new hub.

So when I got the wheel back, they gave me what at first I thought was my old hub. But what it actually was is the brand new hub ( FH-TX505 ) from which they removed a dust cap which they then installed in my wheel. Is this sketchy or is it just me? :/

When I got home I spun the axle to see how smooth it feels, but to my surprise it was binding like crazy. Again I removed one of the cones to see how much grease it has. The grease seemed quite thin and smelly, clear in color. Not sure what it is or how good of a grease it is.

So I am wondering if I should take all of the ball bearings out and re-grease it with my own grease just to be sure? I have a tub of Bontrager grease which I hope is a good quality grease. https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/...lubricants-solvents/bontrager-grease/p/23386/

As far as I know, dust-caps in Shimano FH-RM33 are pressed in and can be removed with some care. I do that only when I first see a wheel, to inspect and see better, but I generally avoid removing those pressed-in dust-caps during regular hub service/overhaul because there is always a risk of deforming them.
Yes, it is a lot easier to clean and inspect the cups with the dust-caps removed, but there is the risk of bending the cups.
I'm not sure I understand what the bike shop did with the hubs. Why would they mess with the dust-caps of a brand new hub? That makes no sense. Or did they install dust-caps from a "donor" hub to your existing hub - if they did that, it makes more sense.

If a hub is binding, it's either pitted, or has too much preload. The former means it's toast, the latter means it will become toast after some riding. My video on cup-and-cone hub service and bearing preload adjustment:

Regarding the grease - for bicycle bearings, the crucial part is regular service (every 5000 km, or 12 months, whichever comes first). Practically any grease is more than good enough. I like to say it's like soap: if you use it regularly, the brand doesn't matter - if you don't, even the most expensive one won't help.

I use Motorex Bike Grease (or "Grease 2000," depending on where you buy it). It has a clear colour so I can see what's going on, and it is officially plastic friendly (modern bikes have more and more rubber & plastic parts) - though any Lithium based grease has been fine with plastics near bike bearings, I prefer the peace of mind when working on other people's bikes.
https://bike.bikegremlin.com/1985/bicycle-bearing-grease-explained/#7
Be careful not to put too many grease on the freehub side - it could start binding if the relatively hard grease enters the mechanism (the pawls and the spring are not too strong/big, so only oil or very soft semi-liquid grease is good for that).

Freehub disassembly:

 

[Arcturus]

...
I'm not sure I understand what the bike shop did with the hubs. Why would they mess with the dust-caps of a brand new hub? That makes no sense. Or did they install dust-caps from a "donor" hub to your existing hub - if they did that, it makes more sense.
...

No I paid for a brand new hub just so they can take out the dust cap. Do you know is it possible to buy just the cap?

for bicycle bearings, the crucial part is regular service (every 5000 km, or 12 months, whichever comes first).

So no matter how it feels, the wheels need to be re-greased every year? (doubt I would do 5000km lol)
Does that mean headset bearings as well?

 

[BikeGremlin]

No I paid for a brand new hub just so they can take out the dust cap. Do you know is it possible to buy just the cap?

I haven't found dust caps on sale - but I haven't been looking for them either (always some trashed hub to mix and match ).
They sold you a new hub to use the dust caps? If that's the case, I hope it was at least a cheap low-end hub. I mean, it can still end up cheaper than re-lacing the wheel with a new hub (if they didn't have any donor cups - I rarely throw stuff away just for such situations).

So no matter how it feels, the wheels need to be re-greased every year? (doubt I would do 5000km lol)
Does that mean headset bearings as well?

For cup-and-cone hubs, yes, it's best to do regular, annual service. Maybe once in two years if you don't ride many miles and don't ride a lot in the mud, rain or dust. Otherwise, cones get pitted first (they can often be sourced and bought separately), then the bearing balls, and then the cups. When the cups get pitted/worn, it usually means a new hub (relacing and building a wheel). Yes, with the right tools, parts and patience, you could take out a cup from a donor hub and press it instead of the worn one, but it's not even something bicycle shops do generally.

For headset bearings, there is no risk if they get pitted - as they are usually not expensive to replace. The same goes for cartridge bearing hubs.